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Narwhal and her awesome West Coast honeymoon) so rather than go through city by city which would take ages I decided to do a fly-by list of recommendations for each place Fair warning: This is a beast of a post I promise I won’t be offended if you decide to ignore it or skim it That being said let’s start?with Santorini Clockwise from top left that’s: the view from our sunset sail our dinner at Sunset Ammoudi Tavern the view from our hotel room a photo of one of the beaches from our sunset sail fishies during the snorkel portion of the sail and the hike down to Sunset Ammoudi All images personal Mostly taken by Mr Hammerhead because I have no patience for such things We stayed in Oia which is the town most famous for its sunset views I’ll admit originally I was planning on starting our trip in Switzerland and taking the whole trip in reverse but the flights didn’t really work out that way And Mr Hammer made the valid point that we’d probably need a low-key relaxing place to kick off our vacation rather than starting with a heavily sightseeing spot And you know what He was exactly right In Oia our daily routine went something like: wake up walk around town a bit grab a couple things to cobble together a lunch lounge around and/or nap in our cave house walk around town a bit more (only if we felt like it) get dinner sleep repeat We didn’t feel any pressure to go out and see anything in particular; we were happy to just take in the sights at our own pace That said we do have a couple of small suggestions if you’re looking for things to do in the area: Activities Sunset sail: Much like the Argyles (and yes I did comb the ‘Bee archives for travel recommendations while planning this honeymoon) we decided to take one of Oia’s famous sunset sails as our one planned activity on our last night in Santorini We scheduled ours through our hotel when we got there and ended up choosing the cheaper catamaran trip with more (30ish) people I think we might have enjoyed the smaller-group “yacht” more but it was still a good time and a pretty good value They took us to a hot spring (really more of a “warm spring” but interesting and gorgeous nonetheless) and two swimming spots?one with a bunch of fish you could see with the snorkels they provided?before feeding us some delicious barbecue onboard the boat Then they sailed us out to an amazing sunset viewing spot where we actually saw dolphins before returning to shore It was the stuff Lisa Frank dreams are made of you guys Food Pito Gyros: Oh man we went here our last day in Oia and I really wish we’d discovered it sooner The gyros are amazing Sunset Ammoudi: This was a fun experience?you trek down a lot of steps (I think 200 or so) to Ammoudi Oia’s bay and eat fish that could not be any fresher right by the water And then…you trek back up It’s a bit of a rough journey but the views are worth it Gelato Lolita’s Gelato: Yes we managed to find gelato before we even got to Italy?and um it was amazing I think we went here every single day The owner learned how to make gelato in Italy and it shows Yummm From Santorini we took a flight to Bari to explore the?Puglia region (the “heel” in the boot of Italy) Clockwise from top left: the oven at Forno Antico Santa Chiara Oi Mari pizza Matera and Alberobello Trulli Puglia is pretty rural meaning it’s a little harder to get from point to point via the train station so we ended up renting a car for this one leg in our journey I definitely would not want to have to drive in any of the other places we visited but honestly it wasn’t a big deal in Puglia It was mostly highway driving and it was nice to be able to visit all the little towns without being restricted by public transportation Activities Alberobello: This town is full of these awesome igloo-looking buildings called trulli We actually got to stay in one which was very cool The town is a nice little home base very manageable and fun to wander around in Matera: Oh man If you go to Puglia you?have to visit Matera It’s just incredible When you get into town it looks like a normal modern Italian town But then you walk down an alley in the city center and suddenly you’re in this ravine full of “cave houses” carved right out of the rocks Apparently the town has been continuously inhabited for 7000 years and it’s just an unbelievable sight to see Altamura: If you’re as into bread as Mr Hammerhead is we’d recommend a detour to Altamura to pick up a two-kilogram loaf of their famous?pane di Altamura The bread itself is delicious but it’s also just a fun experience to wander around the city’s alleys searching for the right bakery We picked Forno Antico Santa Chiara…and it was a good choice indeed Pizza Oi Mari: For our first Italian pizza experience we picked this place in Matera (Mr Hammerhead is very much into pizza and finding the ideal wood-fired slice for obvious reasons) The pizza was almost as amazing as the setting Gelato Mille Voglie: After trying three gelato places in the center of town over the course of our two-night stay in Alberobello we decided that the first one we visited was our favorite Puglia was awesome but before we knew it it was time to return our rental car and take the train on to?Sorrento Pompeii dinner at Il Buco view of Amalfi coast from our driving tour view of Sorrento and pizza at Da Gigino We loooved Sorrento Our hotel was situated right in the heart of the old part of town on a narrow pedestrian-only street lined with vendors selling all things lemon It was so fun to wander around town taking in the sights and doing a little bit of shopping and it also made a great jumping-off point for visiting other places Activities Pompeii: I’m pretty sure this is a required stop if you’re in the area We were there the first Sunday of the month which unbeknownst to us is a free admission day to the ruins (yay) However that also meant there were no English tour groups running when we got there and I think a few more sites than usual were closed to the public (boo) But we still enjoyed wandering through the ruins with my Rick Steves podcast audio tour and the whole place is just mind blowing no matter how you see it Amalfi coast: We splurged and booked a private driving tour through Monetti Taxi to see the Amalfi coast If you’re staying in Sorrento I would highly recommend doing this or something similar?or at least doing a small-group tour of Amalfi rather than going on one of the huge tour buses Or if you are taking a tour bus make sure you’re sitting on the right side of the bus; the left side doesn’t get any views at all on their way down Anyway we loved Carmello our driver from Monetti He kept up a steady chatter of facts and stories about the Amalfi coast the whole way down making the drive fly by and stopped to let us take photos several times along the way We also took longer (about 45-minute) stops in Positano and Amalfi before he dropped us off for lunch at a lovely restaurant in Ravello with spectacular views It was a very relaxing easygoing way to see the coast Loved it Walking around: Much like Alberobello Sorrento is a very manageable town You can pretty much wander from one end to the other in one day and see a lot of fun things in between Some of our favorites were Marina Grande (where all the fishing boats are) and the lemon grove park in the “new” part of town where you can meander down paths under lemon trees and sample the limoncello they make from the fruit Ristorante Il Buco: Oh man If you’re in the mood for a fancy honeymoon meal we would highly recommend this place It’s set in an old monastery and they sat us under a big arch outside with a view of the ocean We went with their eight-course tasting menu “I Trust You” where the chef chooses each course It was the most ridiculously decadent meal of our lives The food was amazing and the courses ended up totaling closer to 11 because of all the bonus treats they brought out in between the main courses After a solid three and a half hours of eating we rolled out of there Pizza Da Gigino and La Basilica: Both of these restaurants got high marks from Mr Hammerhead for their pillowy crusts and delicious toppings According to him Da Gigino had a slightly more flavorful dough Gelato Gelateria David: This place is rightfully famous in Sorrento We were admittedly a little skeptical after making a beeline here on our first night on Rick Steves’s recommendation It’s big and crowded not exactly the romantic little gelato shop we’d envisioned (we are gelato hipsters people) But oh man their gelato is delicious so flavorful and smooth In fact we liked it so much we tried to return there for a second night?only to find a sign on their door saying they were closed for the rest of the week Womp womp wommmmp From Sorrento we headed on to?Florence the “big city” stop on our trip Pausing for breath during our bike tour in front of the Basilica San Miniato al Monte a view of the Mercato Centrale chaos I Due Fratellini our cooking space during our class a truffle (so yummy-looking…) and the view from the Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset Florence is obviously famous for its art but Mr Hammerhead and I aren’t big art/art museum people so I was a little skeptical going into it But honestly just walking through town is like visiting the most beautiful museum ever There’s amazing architecture and landscapes around every corner?and the people-watching wasn’t half-bad either Activities Sunset biking tour: We booked a tour from Italy Cruiser Bike Tours for our first night in Florence and it was a pretty great way to get oriented to the city Our tour group consisted of us and one other woman so it was very manageable and the tour guide stopped periodically along the way to tell us the history behind the sites we were riding by We also got an awesome view of the sunset from Piazzale Michelangelo and some amazing gelato out of the bargain Shopping: Admittedly I enjoyed this part more than Mr Hammerhead did but there’s just so much awesome (and for the most part affordable) shopping in Florence The highlight for me was?the leather market which was an insane street lined with vendor after vendor selling leather stuff in all colors of the rainbow I’d read stories online about being sold fake leather items from the stalls so I mostly just browsed there and made my purchases in well-reviewed shops?Michaelangelo for a jacket Roberta Firenze for a purse and Furo e Punteruolo (Via del Giglio 29r) for a really cool rustic-looking belt for Mr Hammerhead that the shop owner cut to size while we waited I also picked up some cool pastas at the Mercato Centrale (holy crap must-do if you’re into food) and a calligraphy nib holder at Johnson & Relatives (Via del Proconsolo 26r) Truffle tour: Mr Hammerhead is a budding forager?or at least he would be if I weren’t always begging him not to eat the “blackberries” we find on our hikes So for Christmas last year I gave him an IOU for a truffle-hunting tour in Florence I ended up booking it through Viator and on the day of our tour we met our tour guide and our two fellow tour-mates in Florence and our guide drove us out to Fattoria Collebrunacchi a villa in the Chianti region The villa has been in the family for generations and in addition to hunting for truffles and hosting tour groups like ours they also make their own wines Truffle hunting is obviously a catch-as-catch-can kind of thing and they warned us that the day before they’d only found two truffles But about 10 minutes after venturing into the woods with Chaco their truffle-hunting dog Chaco started to dig and he found five or six black truffles Giddy with success that had basically nothing to do with us we hiked back to the villa where our tour guide gave us a very in-depth class on wine tasting and the matriarch of the family made us the most delicious two-course lunch ever featuring truffles Cooking class: Finally Mr Hammerhead and I signed up for a “VIP cooking class” through Florencetown If you like cooking I would highly recommend this class?even if you’ve taken cooking classes before Since it was Sunday the markets were closed so we had to skip the market-touring part of the class but when the driver took us out to another Chianti villa we got over our disappointment The villa had been completely renovated for Florencetown and the cooking space was a maz ing Our chef-teacher guided us through the process of making our own fresh pasta and by the end of the class we were feasting on ravioli with fresh tomato sauce pappardelle with bolognese sauce and peach tiramisu Food: Just in general the food in Florence is incredible In particular we loved the rabbit ragu at Trattoria al Trebbio the balsamic and blueberry steaks at Acqua al 2 (apparently they have restaurants in New York and DC too) bistecca fiorentina at All’Antico Ristorante di Cambi and pretty much any of the sandwiches at I Due Fratellini Pizza Mercato Centrale: Mr Hammerhead really liked the pizza on the second level of the?Mercato Centrale which was a little surprising to us because that level of the market looks like one giant food court Apparently Italians even do food courts better than we do I will say though that when Mr Hammerhead went back for round two on another day the cheese-to-sauce ratio was totally different so your results may vary depending on the day Gelato Vivaldi and La Strega Nocciola: These two shops are on the other side of the river from most of the big Florence sites (AKA the Oltrarno) but we thought the flavor and smoothness of their gelato was well worth the walk Grom: This was hands-down our favorite gelato shop on the northern side of the river And?bonus?they too have shops in NYC now Fingers crossed they make it into Boston too Our time with Florence was real but before long we had to catch our train for?Cinque Terre The view from our hotel room the streets in Monterosso al Mare the beginning of the trail toasting the end of our hike with some cheesy foccacia and the view of Vernazza from the end of the trail Cinque Terre consists of?five towns spread out along the coast of northern Italy We chose to stay in Monterosso al Mare because they seemed to have the most options for hotels and restaurants and since it was at the end of the hiking trail that connects all five towns I figured it’d be a good place to start and hike the whole trail (ha) Activities Hiking: The trail between the towns is really the main event for the Cinque Terre region; it’s fairly remote so it’s not exactly a bustling hub (although I will say that there were a *ton* of tourists there midday?maybe tour groups and/or cruise ship crowds) Different legs of the trail are often closed for maintenance so when we were there the only parts open were between Monterosso al Mare and Vernazza and between Vernazza and Corniglia We headed out early in the morning (to beat the heat and the crowds) and conveniently the Monterosso-Vernazza stretch is supposedly the hardest on the whole trail I may or may not have regretted our decision a couple times along the way?there are a *lot* of stairs on that path?but the views were well worth it That being said we did?not decide to hike on to Corignlia The trains served us just fine for exploring the other towns thankyouverymuch Pizza In Cinque Terre pizza is really foccacia crispy on the bottom and light and fluffy in the middle We chose Focacceria Il Frantoio (Vio Gioberti 1) to sample a piece with pesto a piece with prosciutto and a plain piece and we definitely did not regret our decision Gelato At this point in the trip our options for gelato shops started to thin out but we still loved the offerings at Gelateria Il Golosone We were only in Cinque Terre for a couple of nights?just long enough to hike the trail and explore the towns a bit?before we headed on to?Zermatt Switzerland Matterhorn peeking through the clouds at the Glacier Paradise; the view down from the gondola; a better view of the Matterhorn from our hotel the next day; the town of Zermatt Activities Matterhorn Glacier Paradise: Like Cinque Terre Zermatt really only has one main show in town?the Matterhorn It was drizzling off and on during our one full day so you couldn’t see the peak at all from the base and I was a little worried that the visibility would suck from the mountain as well But we saw some potential for clearing up in the forecast so we bit the bullet and took the three cable cars up When we first got to the peak it was too cloudy to see anything so we spent a bit of time watching their movies on Matterhorn wildlife and exploring the ice sculptures in their “Glacier Palace” By the time we meandered (very slowly in the very thin air) up to the observation deck there was a break in the clouds and we got an awesome view of that famous mountain Totally worth it Word to the wise: if you decide to do this bring a?very warm jacket no matter what the weather’s like at the base I was very grateful for my cardigan and new leather jacket Matterhorn Museum: If you’re stuck with a rainy day this is a cute little museum in the downtown area of Zermatt They’ve built a half(ish)-scale model of the village as it was in the 19th century so you can wander through it and get a feel for what the town was like before mountaineers and tourists “discovered” it Food Restaurant Whymper Stube: Once we left pizza-and-gelato land I had one goal and one goal only: fondue We found it in spades at this place and quickly ordered both cheese and meat fondue We may or may not have overcommitted and we were pretty much in pain afterward but it was a?most delicious mistake Again I think two nights was just enough time in Zermatt to see the Matterhorn and explore the town a little bit Of course if it’d been crappy weather all day on our one full day there I might be singing a different tune but as New Englanders we know better than to hinge all our plans on the weather ? After those two nights we had one more stop on our list:?Wengen?So we caught a train (or six) there The view of Lauterbrunnen (I think…) from the train; views on our hike above Wengen; biking just outside Lauterbrunnen; the view from Piz Gloria; the view from our hotel room in Wengen Activities: Frolicking outdoors: There’s no end of hiking biking running etc that you can do in the Berner Oberland region The area is full of breathtaking mountains and valleys We especially enjoyed hiking in the mountains above Wengen and biking through Lauterbrunnen Piz Gloria: During one of our days in the Berner Oberland we took a few gondolas up to the top of the Schilthorn to see Piz Gloria If you’re a James Bond fan it’s a fun trip because they have a whole little museum up there dedicated to the James Bond movie that was set at Piz Gloria If you’re not a James Bond fan it still offers some amazing views of the surrounding mountains Food: Restaurant Silberhorn-Stube: Food in Switzerland is for sure not cheap but we ate dinner here twice and found the prices to be fairly reasonable And worth it for the rosti (basically a huge potato pancake) with bacon eggs and cheese and the raclette (a big plate of melted cheese) with potatoes Yummm So that’s it folks: our honeymoon in one extremely long-winded nutshell I know the sightsee-till-you-drop honeymoon isn’t for everybody but it was perfect for us and we would do it again in a heartbeat Epic trip Did you guys pack a lot of sightseeing into your honeymoons Did you enjoy it or did you wish you’d planned a vacation from your vacation Tags: harwich-porthoneymoon BLOGGER Mrs Hammerhead Venue: Wychmere Beach Club --> PREVIOUS POSTNinjas Oddities and Absinthe: A Brooklyn Bachelorette Party NEXT POSTAll That and a Newsboy Cap: Dressing the Ring Bearers Related Posts Hammerhead Tips for Euro Trips10/05/15 @ 8:25 am Hammerhead Invitations Reveal06/04/15 @ 10:55 am The Narwhal Honeymoon: Roundup10/20/15 @ 3:05 pm Narwhal Honeymoon: Cities10/07/15 @ 12:46 pm while I painstakingly sift through our hundreds of professional photos,www.79629.com,加猪瘦肉馅、适量蒜苗、葱姜末、精盐等搅拌均匀。
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